Ingredients To Avoid In Everyday Cosmetics
Listed below are some of the ingredients contained in many everyday cosmetics that we have encountered in our research. We personally feel, from the information shown below, that they are best avoided.
We have provided these details to help you recognise what is contained in everyday products, allowing you to make an informed decision regarding the skin care products you buy.
We do not use any of the ingredients listed below in our products. For a list of ingredients we do use please visit the
‘Our ingredients’ page in the Info centre.
Alkyloamides:
Identified on skin-care product labels as:
Diethanolamine (DEA)
Monoethanolamine (MEA)
Triethanolamine (TEA), and sometimes preceded by 'cocamide'
primarily used as a foam-booster in shampoos, but can also be used as thickening or binding agents, triethanolamine is used as a pH balancer. Some evidence suggests that they can be skin irritants. In addition, alkyloamides contain a free amine that can combine with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives in cosmetics, and there is concern that they may form nitrosamines (carcinogens).
Artificial colour or fragrance "parfum": (if not qualified as an essential oil)
Studies have shown that “19% of children with eczema are fragrance sensitive” (
Contact Dermatitis, vol. 48, p.59, 2003). Many other studies link rising levels of dermatitis in recent years with an increased use of fragrance chemicals.
back to top >
Borax (Sodium Borate)
:
It is sourced from mineral and is used as an emulsifier and thickener as it miraculously helps blend fats with water. Extended use of products containing Borax may result in dry, brittle skin. Some studies suggest its link to a type of poisoning that can lead to anaemia in small children. Research suggests that borax can penetrate the skin, is a powerful irritant and may even cause cancer. Use of borates has been linked to the possible development of foetal malformations.
Butylated hydroxytoluene:
It is synthetically produced and is used as an antioxidant, being applied to fat-containing products to prevent them from going rancid. There are conflicting views about the safety of this substance but there is some evidence that suggests that this substance may be carcinogenic. It is also possible that it is easily absorbed by the skin.
2-bromo-2 nitropropane-1,3-diol:
Synthetically produced and commonly used as a preservative in cosmetics and as a solvent for nail varnish. It is found to cause allergies and contact dermatitis in some individuals. It can form nitrosamines if combined with triethanolamines. Inhalation of this substance can lead to loss of appetite, diarrhoea and headaches.
back to top >
Collagen:
This is an animal based substance, usually taken from young animal carcasses (e.g. piglets and calves). In some cases, from aborted human foetuses, or even executed prisoners, in some countries. It is used as a skin tonic and mild moisturizer and is found extensively in ‘anti-wrinkle’ creams, some shampoos and ‘pout’ injections. It is thought that it helps tone the skin by replacing lost natural collagen. However, it is unlikely that collagen is even absorbed into the skin to have any effect.
back to top >
Euxyl K100/Actizide AC: (Benzyl alcohol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone)
It is synthetically produced and used as a preservative against bacteria and fungi in cosmetics. It is also used in anti-freeze for cars and as a wood preservative. This product is used in around 10-20% of cosmetics on the market today. It is suspected to be one of the most common causes of allergic reactions to cosmetics. Symptoms include; redness, blisters, itchiness, boils, rashes, peeling, and swelling of the skin.
.
back to top >
Gelatine:
This substance is taken from animal sources, mostly from boiled bones from the slaughter house. It is used to make gels and thicken creams and to make lozenges and capsules for medicines. It is still used as a thickener in a lot of food products today. Since the occurrence of CJD in the 90’s it is advised that this material not be used (externally or internally), as the body parts used to extract this material have been shown to hold the greatest concentration of prions.
back to top >
Hydrogenated oils:
Highly processed and refined, hydrogenated fats offer no value to the skin, and in the diet have been linked to heart disease due to hardening of the arteries.
back to top >
Isopropyl myristate:
This substance is semi-synthetically produced and is used in the cosmetic industry as a substitute for vegetable oils. It helps the skin feel soft without being oily, and does not go rancid. It has been shown to react with triethanolamines to create compounds that can be absorbed by the skin and possibly cause health problems.
back to top >
Kathon CG: (methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone)
This substance is synthetically produced and used as a preservative against bacteria and fungi in cosmetics. It is also used in anti-freeze for cars and as a wood preservative. This product (and euxyl k100) is used in around 10-20% of cosmetics on the market today. It is suspected to be one of the most common causes of allergic reactions to cosmetics. Symptoms include; redness, blisters, itchiness, boils, rashes, peeling, and swelling of the skin.
back to top >
Lanolin:
A bi-product of sheep wool that, due to pesticide residue, has been linked to skin-sensitivity.
back to top >
Methyldibromo glutaronitrile:
Apparently “No safe level for methyldibromo glutaronitrile (MDBGN) in cosmetic products has been established… it is recommended that it should not be present in any cosmetic product"(
EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, 15/3/05).
The EU has reduced the permitted level of this preservative in recent years to 0.1% in wash-off products, but it is still commonly used.
back to top >
Paraben preservatives: (butylparaben, ethylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben)
Other than being suspected as a skin-irritant the paraben family of preservatives was recently linked to breast cancer: "The findings of parabens in tumour samples are in line with the general hypothesis that there may be a link between oestrogenic compounds currently used in underarm cosmetics and breast cancer"(
Journal of Applied Toxicology, vol. 24, 2004 p.1-4).
Parabens have been used for the past 60 years and are generally regarded by commercial manufacturers as being well tolerated when used at recommended levels of concentration. Some individuals may have allergic reactions specific to this material. Due to the fact that it may be mildly oestrogenic (especially propyl and butylparaben) it should be avoided by pregnant women as a safety precaution. Research has indicated this material’s possible effect on the male reproductive system (in particular a decrease in both serum testosterone concentration and daily sperm production).
Petroleum oils such as
petrolatum and
mineral oil and
liquid paraffin:
Commonly used as paraffin wax/oil or petroleum jelly ‘ointment’. They may come out of the earth originally as crude oil, but dead petrochemicals offer little benefit to skin and health. They create a surface film on the skin and block the pores, holding moisture in, but preventing the skin from secreting its toxins. Not only do they stop the skin breathing and absorbing oil soluble vitamins, which are so vital for skin health and repair, (a real problem in the case of eczema and dermatitis sufferers), they actually accelerate the ageing process by encouraging free-radical generation.
Tests performed on 100 children at Sheffield Children's hospital concluded that:
"56% of the episodes of exposure to aqueous cream [petroleum-based cream] were associated with an immediate cutaneous reaction… Cutaneous reactions to aqueous creams in children with atopic eczema are so common, that it should only be used as a soap substitute and not as a leave-on emollient" (
The Pharmaceutical Journal, vol. 271, 2003)
These substances may also cause discoloration of the skin. They have been known to dry out the skin dramatically, may prevent absorption of vitamins, can clog the pores and may also be carcinogenic (due to the presence of impurities e.g. polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons).
The manufacturing process of petrochemicals is also extremely polluting to our environment. Petroleum derivatives include:
Propylene glycol and
butylene glycol which have been linked to skin sensitivity.
Polyethylene Glycol (PEG)
One of the worst known ingredients used in cosmetics is polyethylene glycol (PEG).The higher the number following the PEG (e.g. PEG-6, PEG-150) the more toxic the ingredient is thought to be. PEG compounds are synthetic chemicals used in cosmetics as surfactants, cleansing agents, emulsifiers, skin conditioners and humectants that many believe could increase the risk of a variety of cancers, including breast cancer. They contain various harmful impurities, according to a report by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) committee that was published in the International Journal of Toxicology, including:
- Ethylene oxide: Ethylene oxide increases the incidences of uterine and breast cancers and of leukaemia and brain cancer, according to experimental results reported by the National Toxicology Program.
- 1,4-dioxane: According to the National Toxicology Program, "1,4-dioxane is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen."
- Polycyclic aromatic compounds (PAHs): Known to increase the risk of breast cancer.
- Lead
- Iron
- Cobalt
- Nickel
- Cadmium
- Arsenic
Unfortunately, the risks associated with PEG compounds are widely underexposed. Even the CIR concluded that many PEG compounds "are safe for use" in cosmetics, yet they added that PEG compounds should "not be used on damaged skin."
Potassium Sorbate (E202):
This substance can be synthetically produced or from a plant source. It is used as a preservative in skin care products against yeasts, mould and certain bacteria. For this product to work at its best it is necessary to raise the PH of your product to around PH5 or less. Quite a lot of people are intolerant to this material, resulting in a redness and irritation of the skin.
back to top >
Sodium lauryl(eth) sulphate: (or other
sulphate detergents)
"Sodium lauryl sulphate is used around the world in clinical studies as a skin irritant"
(Journal of the American School of Toxicology, Vol. 2, No. 7, 1983).
Other akyl sulphate detergents are reputedly less damaging to the skin, but the Soil Association does not allow them on environmental grounds.
back to top >
Triethanolamine (TEA):
It is synthetically produced and used as an emulsifier in cosmetic creams and lotions. It has been used for several decades and is still used today. The chemical has been found to severely irritate the eyes and skin (especially the mucus membranes). It has also been found to be able to penetrate the skin and cause liver damage. When combined with nitrates (commonly found in drinking water), a chemical reaction occurs producing nitrosamine (a carcinogenic substance).
back to top >
Information taken from ‘Make Your Own Essential Oils and Skin-Care Products’ by Daniel Coaten,
www.aromantic.co.uk
www.secondnatureonline.co.uk
www.sixwise.com